Sustainable farming practices that use natural materials, soils and composts are taking root in the Ningxia region, thanks to the arrival of European and Western-educated Chinese winemakers
Lenz Moser, chief winemaker at Chateau Changyu Moser XV, sorts through harvest grapes. Photo: Changyu Moser
Since its initial development by the Austrian philosopher and scientist Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, biodynamic farming has been adopted by several notable vineyards in countries such as France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Austria, Germany, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Canada and the United States.
In the past decade, the movement has spread westwards and taken root in the Ningxia wine region of China, thanks to the arrival of European and Western-educated Chinese winemakers.
Biodynamic viticulture refers to farming practices that create a self-sustaining and sustainable system, using natural materials, soils and composts. Chemical fertilisers and pesticides are forbidden and replaced instead with nine preparation methods (coded as Preparation 500 to 508) made from herbs, mineral substances and animal manure turned into field sprays and compost to sustain soil fertility.
Since its initial development by the Austrian philosopher and scientist Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, biodynamic farming has been adopted by several notable vineyards in countries such as France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Austria, Germany, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Canada and the United States.
In the past decade, the movement has spread westwards and taken root in the Ningxia wine region of China, thanks to the arrival of European and Western-educated Chinese winemakers.
Biodynamic viticulture refers to farming practices that create a self-sustaining and sustainable system, using natural materials, soils and composts. Chemical fertilisers and pesticides are forbidden and replaced instead with nine preparation methods (coded as Preparation 500 to 508) made from herbs, mineral substances and animal manure turned into field sprays and compost to sustain soil fertility.
Silver Heights’ biodynamic wines are attracting connoisseurs in Japan, Canada, Singapore and Germany. Its Cabernet Sauvignon Emma’s Reserve, and The Summit, a blend of cabernet and merlot, were nominated for Best Chinese Red at the inaugural Singapore Wine Pinnacle Awards. Photo: Silver Heights
Biodynamic followers coordinate soil treatments with the lunar calendar, believing that plants are more receptive to practices like fertilising or pruning on particular days or phases of the moon.
The continental desert region of Ningxia receives more than 3,000 hours of sunshine a year – more than Bordeaux – with annual rainfall averaging just 300mm or less. Winter temperatures are extremely severe, plummeting to minus 25 degrees Celsius. These climatic features call for wine oenologists to practise biodynamic viticulture by adjusting to the terroir, including burying the vines in the ground through winter for four months until spring to mitigate damage to the vines from chilly winds.
“Ningxia’s climate has its pros and cons, like anywhere else. I think the area is ideally suited as we don’t face problems such as moisture or fungus diseases seen in European vineyards,” says Lenz Moser, chief winemaker of Chateau Changyu Moser XV, which he co-launched in 2013 with China’s largest winery, Changyu.
Chateau Changyu Moser XV announced in 2019 that it was converting its entire 250 hectares of vineyards into biodynamic viticulture in five years. Moser belongs to the 15th generation of a prominent Austrian winemaking family which started in the business in 1610. His father and namesake is credited with having been the first winemaker to launch biodynamic viticulture in Austria in 1978.
A sixth-century calendar, 24 solar terms, comes in handy for deciding when to sow and prune vineyard harvests at Silver Heights.
Given Ningxia’s desert-style arid lands, sustaining soil fertility in the region is critical.
“Summer is very hot and dry in Ningxia and hence we use cow manure to regulate soils, as cow manure is cool compared to the warmer horse or yak manure, which are optimal for use in both cold and humid weather,” says Sun Miao, who founded Domaine des Arômes with her husband, Peng Shuai. The couple studied in France and worked in biodynamic wineries in Burgundy and the Rhône wine region.
The elegant Changyu Moser Chateau XV building looks like a classic French winery. Photo: Changyu Moser
As we have already taken the decision to go natural, we will go all the wayLenz Moser
The process of turning over land to bury vines every winter is detrimental to the microorganisms in soil. To assess soil vitality in its vineyards, Silver Heights, a leading family-owned boutique winery in the foothills of the Helan Mountains, solicited help from a Japanese expert and discovered that organic substance accounts for only 0.2 per cent of its soils, compared with an average of 7 and 2 per cent in Japan and Europe respectively.
So the winery began raising 155 goats, 10 horses, and two mules, as well as cows, and planted two hectares of grass in 2016 to make fermented compost to revitalise soil microbes.
Winemakers imbibing the Chinese wisdom of “24 solar terms”, an ancient calendar that governs agricultural arrangements even today, find it a good reference for practising biodynamic farming, as both systems have much in common.
Changyu Moser’s cellar. Photo: Changyu Moser
“A Chinese book published in the sixth century really comes in handy for deciding when to sow, prune, harvest in vineyards or taste wines, as similarly instructed in the biodynamic calendar. Follow these principles and the vineyards can well be managed in good order,” explains Silver Heights’ Gao.
As more wineries in Ningxia convert to organic farming, and biodynamic wines gain popularity, Domaine des Arômes has developed a Chinese cult following, mainly well-educated, middle-aged male consumers.
Meanwhile, Silver Heights’ biodynamic wines are attracting connoisseurs from Japan, Canada, Singapore and Germany. In October, its 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon Emma’s Reserve, and The Summit, a blend of cabernet and merlot, were nominated for Best Chinese Red at the inaugural Singapore Wine Pinnacle Awards.
Located in the foothills of the Helan Mountains, Silver Heights learned from a Japanese expert that organic substance accounted for only 0.2 per cent of its soils, compared with an average of 7 and 2 per cent in Japan and Europe respectively.
Given the more labour-intensive effort and the 5 per cent higher workloads involved, Silver Heights’ biodynamic wines cost 10 to 20 per cent more than conventional ones. It is now applying for certification, which helps to allay the widespread distrust in Chinese food products.
While Chateau Changyu Moser XV is new to the game, its potential impact on China’s future biodynamic wine scene should not be underestimated. The chateau has sold its wines in 40 markets, 25 in Europe. Some obtained favourable ratings, including its cabernet, the only Chinese wine to win three major gold medals in Europe. When the chateau completes its conversion to biodynamic, this is expected to help focus global attention on Chinese organically-produced wine. “Biodynamic wines are currently not very developed in China, yet we’ve seen a lot of interest from consumers in China and Europe,” says Moser.
Silver Heights began raising 155 goats, 10 horses, and two mules, as well as cows, and planted two hectares of grass in 2016 to make fermented compost to revitalise soil microbes to make biodynamic wines. Photo: Silver Heights“It is simply our mindset to contribute to a better world in total,” he adds. “It is an ethical question of saving nature and protecting it for future generations … I feel biodynamics is more in tune with Mother Nature than anything else. As we have already taken the decision to go natural, we will go all the way.”
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